Chemical Peel 101: A love/hate relationship
I have love/hate relationship chemical peels, but we aren’t breaking up anytime soon.
I’ve done chemical peels for years. I encourage my clients to get at least two chemical peels per year, starting around age 30. Chemical peels are one of those things that will give you a few immediate results, but some of the work acids do below the surface don’t necessarily yield you that immediate satisfaction that we like. Acids such as TCA are great for facial resurfacing and treating pigmentation issues, but the hidden treasure of this medical grade strength used at Face First, lies in the repair of the top portion of the papillary region of the dermis and the peak of the reticular region.
Sounds like Chinese, I know. Let me break it down. Medium depth chemical peels are designed to penetrate the epidermis, which contain 5 cellular layers. In the process of the peel, you can expect to slough around 4 of those layers within the 5-7 days following the treatment. This helps with uneven skin tone, discolorations on the skin, and gives an overall brightening effect. The real magic takes place just under this layer where the acid penetrates just a wee bit further. Just below the epidermis in the dermal region, is the papillary dermis and reticular dermis. Plain and simple, this is where our collagen and elastin fibers are located.
Imagine this: You have a square of carpet that contains an upper layer of “pile” that is attached to a “backing” that the fibers are tufted through. If you leave that carpet outside for an extended period of time, sun and the elements will often desinigrate both the pile and the backing. The backing that is holding these tufts in place simply becomes ineffective, the tufts began to release, and now this carpet is a mess.
Now imagine this concept in regard to your face. Your epidermis and a portion of your dermis are your “tufts and pile”. Over time, sun and age are the two main culprits that damage your papillary and reticular region, your “backing”. When this layer begins to show wear and tear, we lose collagen and elastin, the alchemy that makes our face look as it did at 19. Hence, wrinkling and sagging begin to occur.
Makes sense now, right? Medical grade chemical peels do a great deal for preventing an aging face, and correcting damage that already exists. So, yes you will see some nice resurfacing, brightening, and shrunken pore size after you heal from your peel, but you are also getting benefits that will help to keep your face looking younger, longer.
Be aware of the various types of chemical peels when you are looking to have this treatment. The words “medical grade” are a big deal when considering your options. There are superficial, medium, and deep depth peels available.
Superficial peels are only going to penetrate a couple of the top layers of the epidermis. There is no real down time, and these are typically performed by an esthetician. You will have some superficial peeling, but there will be no benefit to the “carpet backing” papillary region.
A medium depth peel is performed under medical supervision by a Registered Nurse, or by a physician. This peel will penetrate to the papillary dermis and the very peak of the reticulum layer (your carpet backing). Your peeling will generally be completed in 7-8 days with minimal down time. Peeling skin will be darker and thicker with medium peels vs. superficial peels. Skin will start to darken on day 2 or 3, slight peeling around mouth on day 3, skin will continue to peel until day 7 or 8, starting around mucus membrane ( eyes, nose , mouth) and the forehead usually peels last. Toward end of peel you may just have slight peeling in the hairline. Often times you look okay the first 2 days and last 2 days, it is day 3- 6 that look bad. Exfoliating products and treatment need to be avoided for at several weeks after a medium depth peel. Follow post treatment instructions to avoid complications. This peel treats skin discoloration, melasma, pore size, fine lines and wrinkles. You will get some immediate gratification, and then some!
Deep chemical peels are less common than years past due to severity of complications and extended down time, and have largely been replaced by lasers and utilization of a series of medium depth peels. These peels extend deep into the Reticular Dermis. They are very effective, but the risk of infection and complications is higher.
There are many different medical grade acids to choose from, and I choose the acid to treat with based on consultation with each particular client. The majority of the time, I use TCA and VI Precision Plus and I’ll talk more about those in another blog.
In summation, medical grade chemical peels are important and necessary in the age prevention process. You will get some immediate gratification following your peel within a week or so, but the big payoff is in the years to come. I recommend a minimum of 2 per year, and more if you can afford the down time. A medium depth peel can be repeated every 4-6 weeks, and the more of them you get, the better the results. Look for “medium depth medical grade” when shopping around and only trust reputable and experienced practitioners when scheduling your treatment. After all, a chemical peel is really just a controlled wound, or a mild burn. Complications can occur and it’s important to trust your face with a medical professional that is extremely knowledgeable with the mechanism of action of the acids being applied.
Consider this treatment as the gift that keeps on giving. Schedule yours today. January is a great month to receive this treatment or any winter month for that matter because sunlight is strictly prohibited for a couple of weeks following this procedure.
My love/hate reasons? I love the way my skin looks after the peeling subsides. I love the long term benefits from a peel. The hate? Maybe not hate, but it’s a nuisance for about 5-7 days. It’s mid-January and I’ve already had 3 peels this winter and I plan to get in at least one more before summer. I’ll break up with the acids I love for the summer, but we always reconnect in the fall. I definitely love them more than I hate them. I imagine we will be together forever.
Edie Price RN, Certified Medical Aesthetic Provider
...the old things passed away; behold, new things have come. 2 Corinthians 5:17